Green notes add a sharper freshness and naturalness to many types of fragrance from floral to fruity and chypre.
Cis 3 hexenol is a very powerful material reminiscent of freshly cut grass and should be used sparingly in fragrances. I found a great infographic about this on a chemistry site called Compound Interest – for anyone interested in learning about the chemistry of aromas and flavours the site is worth a look.
Many natural materials have green aspects too. Violet leaf absolute is green, wet , mulchy and again should be used very sparingly. Galbanum oil always reminds me of uncooked green beans – try the essential oil and also the resinoid as they have quite different scents. All green notes should be used sparingly as they can seem harsh if used in large quantities. Add green accords to florals, citrus colognes (pettigrain has green notes) and even ambers – Obsession by Calvin Klein features a green note on top of the heady orange blossom and amber.
Sometimes very green fragrances such as Vent Vert by Balmain & Alliage by Estee Lauder are put in their own “Green” category whilst other companies classify them as “green floral” which also includes fragrances such as Chanel No.19. For a more modern green floral try Marc Jacobs Daisy with its notes of violet leaf and crisp apple.
Want to learn more? Why not come to a live perfumery class or study at home with my online perfumery course
