I’m going to start this post by saying White Florals are my least favourite category but I know there are lots of people that adore their bold and heady sexiness. I don’t know whether it was growing up in the 80’s and having a bad first experience with Dior Poison or that Giorgio Beverly Hills with it’s huge cloying fruity white floral pineapple accord filled the air of every department store.
I never quite got on with tuberose fragrances which started life with the 1948 classic Fracas by Robert Piguet or Orange Blossom notes, although I have learned to love the latter in the beautiful Séville à l’Aube by L’Artisan Parfumeur who have relaunched the line in lovely new packaging.
There are many modern interpretations of tuberose including the radiant and definitely more wearable Carnal Flower by Dominique Ropion for Editions de Frederic Malle. If Tuberose is your thing then check out The Candy Perfume Boy’s guide HERE
White florals are also sometimes known as Narcotic Florals due to their heavy, sweet almost narcotic effect in a fragrance. If you are just using naturals in your fragrance creation there are many absolutes available such as Tiare, Gardenia, Orange Flower, Tuberose and Ylang. With the exception of perhaps Ylang which is available in a variety of grades these materials offer a low yield and so are quite costly.
In commercial fragrances synthetic materials such as Aurantiol and Methyl Anthranilate are used instead. White florals contain traces of the chemical indole (also present in Jasmine) which can be added to a fragrance in trace amounts for effect.
If you want to learn more about creating your own fragrances why not join me this July at Rhinefield House for a weekend of Artisan Perfumery